Earlier in the week I received emails from from a list of readers with links pointing to Finnish photographer Janne Parviainen`s Flickr page. Readers suggested his recent light painting images might have a good tutorial - particularly given Halloween happening this week. I shot Janne an email and he promptly came second with the following mini-tutorial. Enjoy!
Light painting and light drawing are ways of photography where Photo is manipulated with different form of illumination sources spell the camera is exposing on a long exposure time in a black or lowly lit place. The estimate of the light painting is that all photos should be true from the camera, without any post editing such as Photoshop, etc.
The exposure times used in light painting vary from few seconds to hours, depending on the desired effect. Often used tools for light painting are flashlights, colored flashes, led sticks, el wire (battery operated led wire), battery operated Christmas lights, childrens` light toys such as light swords etc, or tools specially built for light painting.
Colored flashes and flashlights are slow to get by placing different form of colored gels on them. Colored flashes and flashlights are big for lighting up the scene when taking photos in the dark, or just highlighting certain areas in the photo. By moving led sticks, flashlights and other light sources in the photos` area while the camera is exposing it is potential to create different form of shapes and effects into the photo.
When light painting it is extremely recommended to use a tripod, or to point the camera on a firm ground since in long exposure times undesired trembling of the camera can easily destroy the photo. Even though camera`s light sensitivity raises when using higher ISO-characters, a small ISO-number guarantees a better picture quality when taking photos in the dark.
Camera`s aperture figure is near to set according to the scenery`s overall lighting and to the light of the clear tools used; In a low lit place and when using dimmer lights a small aperture figure works best, where as in a brighter space and when using powerful lights a larger aperture figure is needed. When choosing for the correct aperture figure it is right to remember that evening a really low lit scenery will go out to be quite brilliant in the last film when using long exposure times.
A Bulb switch is a full purchase when wanting longer exposure times than the usual 30 seconds in the most DSLR cameras. In the darkness it`s of big service to use a bright flashlight when focusing, also you can use camera`s autofocus with the flashing and then locking the center or reverse the center on manual witch has the like effect. Info around the `Serotonia` photo:
The picture was interpreted in an abandoned building in a moon in an exposure of 179 seconds, with an aperture of 6.3 and with the ISO image of 100. The Color temperature was set on 4700 to minimaze the yellow from a nearby town lights.
The project was done by lighting myself with an flashlight, first the early half bending to the good face and so the former side bending to the left. The frame was so drawn according to my own bone structure with a childrens color changing finger led toy. The scene was only lit by the natural lighting of the moonlight in rank to get the shadows it put on the wall. The important component of this scene was to wear brightly colored clothes, since dark clothes are nearly invisible in the night when using long exposure times, even if you clean yourself with a flashlight.
Check out more of Janne`s work at his Flickr page and JannePaint.com.
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